Amsterdam Study Abroad Day 1

6/25/11

After lecture Shane and I went on a 13 mile run. It was fun to run along the canals and see the houseboats and modern architecture. I’m not sure what the cost of Amsterdam’s houseboats are, but in Denmark they are relatively low cost. It is great that people of a range of income levels have the opportunity to live on waterfront property. Shane said that there is much more funding available to support multi-family housing in Europe. In the States, only low-income multi-family housing is funded. We ended up on an outer ring of the city, 6 km from Schipol, running along a street with advisory bike lanes. Basically two way auto traffic is allowed on a street with one auto lane and two red bike lanes with dashed white stripes. If cars approach from opposite directions, they are allowed to drift into the bike lane in order to pass each other. In the States, this would be a traffic engineer’s nightmare, but it seemed to work. We didn’t see any cyclists on the road at the time we were running, but there were a few cars. It all seemed to work out alright. It is probably best for a low-traffic street.  We got lost but were able to reorient ourselves with the wayfinding maps and return to the hotel on the tram.

One of the parts of the Anne Frank house that affected me the most was where the girls’ heights were marked on the wall. It brought the story to life and humanized Anne. The quote on the wall was a second hit when I was already starting to tear up. Anne wrote of how she longed to go outside, and dance, and ride her bicycle. We are so lucky to be free to move about wherever we want. The Nazis recognized the value of mobility and banned the Jews from riding on trams or in cars. What does that mean for our cities today? Anyone who cannot operate a car in a car-dependent society is oppressed – children, people with disabilities that prevent them from driving, elderly people who have lost the ability to drive, and people who cannot afford to own an automobile.

In the evening we got to see the final performance of Het National Ballet’s 2011 – 2012 season. This was my friend Megan Gray’s first season dancing with the ballet. We grew up together dancing in Texas. It was like picking back up with an old friend (which we’ll hopefully get to do tonight face to face!). I was afraid that I wouldn’t be able to recognize her. She was still the same Megan, but she is even more charming and her dancing has matured beautifully. There was one especially complicated pattern where the dancers circled around each other in opposite directions, some walking forwards, some walking backwards. I think I lean more towards ordered, controlled traffic flow partially because of my ballet background. As a choreographer, it is my job to organize and direct the dancer’s movement to achieve a desired visual. It is the same reason I was drawn to dressage as a horseback rider. Although I did dressage as a solo event, it was about directing the horse’s movements gracefully around the field.

Nevertheless, removing traffic controls is worth consideration. It requires people to utilize common sense. It is a constant struggle to find the appropriate bounds to freedom. My father brought that idea up yesterday when we were talking about the Anne Frank house, but it also applies to freedom to move in a shared space. My father brought up the idea in response to my qualms over the questionnaire at the end of the tour. There was a video display on modern forms of racism. At the end of the video the narrator would pose a question, such as “Should this political party be outlawed?”. Then the group could respond yes or no and the results would be displayed on the screen. There were some that I couldn’t answer. Should you be able to outlaw a political party? Do you do it at the point that they verbalize a dislike for having a particular ethic group in the country, or do you wait until it’s too late and they have already begun to act on fear and hatred? Both in traffic and politics it is difficult to set boundaries on freedom.

In Amsterdam, there isn’t a specific direction that you are supposed to travel on bike facilities. If there is a bike lane or cycle track, you can travel either direction. I think I like that. It follows people’s natural behavior. As long as the space is wide enough to allow two-way travel, maybe if people are going to go against traffic anyway, it is better if cyclists and drivers anticipate that it will happen. Sometimes I want to go against traffic for a block or so without having to go through the trouble of crossing a busy street. On the other hand, perhaps I could just walk.

Copenhagen > Amsterdam

6/24/11

I am going to reserve judgment until I’ve had more time to bike in Amsterdam, but after I’ve having spent a week in Copenhagen, I’d have to say that I like traffic signals. Copenhagen is more my speed, just as I prefer Eugene to Portland and Chattanooga to Nashville.

It’s good to be with the group and hear everyone’s perspectives – the architects pointing out elements of the city that blend into a fabric for me, people comparing Amsterdam to other cities they’ve visited.

Floating community gardens in the canal?

A street for people – cute little people. Dual purpose. Eliminate traffic in front of the school. Create a space for children to play, in a city where space is limited.

Cool wayfinding signage

Lots of bikes have crates here.

For more pictures, go to my web album.

Eighth Day in Copenhagen

6/23/11

Today was my last day in Copenhagen. This is truly a great city. From an outsider’s perspective, without knowing the local and national politics, I think that three of the problems the city will have to deal with moving into the future are class and race discrimination and waste.

People from many countries become stranded here without money to get home. Denmark has stopped paying to send them home. They walk the streets and collect aluminum cans and plastic and glass bottles. Each aluminum can is worth 1 KR. To put this into perspective, you could collect 20 cans and have enough money to rent a Copenhagen bike share bike. After finishing a drink people will just drop their bottles because they know that the stranded people will collect them. Often people drop trash on the street that has no value. Nevertheless, I would say that Copenhagen is cleaner than most large American cities. Perhaps there is a good city cleaning crew?

From my visit to the Danish Design Center, I know that they are already piloting good solutions to deal with the issues.  So can design solve the problem of waste? No, but it can help. First products can be designed so that all of the parts are either recycled or biodegradable. Second waste can be reclaimed to make new products. There is a Danish company that is making vacuum cleaners out of plastic waste collected from the sea. I had heard the statistic before, that in one section of the Pacific Ocean there is a collection of plastic waste the size of Texas. The vacuum cleaners are not so much about making a trendy product, but about making a statement. Pollution knows no boundaries. It will take a global effort to make collecting current waste and eliminating future waste a priority.

As far as the issue of race, one of the exhibits showed an ad campaign educating people that Copenhageners come from 126 countries. It encouraged citizens to embrace diversity. It makes me hopeful to see even more integration among the younger generations.

Just when I am starting to learn my way around the city, and around the Ekbrant’s kitchen, it is time for me to go to Amsterdam. Today I took my last run through the city. I made it to Nyhavn, where live jazz music was playing, just in time for my post-warm-up stretch. There were stages set up all over the city in preparation for the Solstice celebration. I tried to find the beach that Eskil had taken me to, but I guess I don’t know the city entirely. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the run along the harbor.

After a shower, stretch and dinner, we went out to enjoy the festivities. Down by the lake was a band and a big bonfire decorated with paper maiche witches. It was an odd sensation to have people all around me singing words I didn’t understand while burning witches. Perhaps akin to hearing the song “I’m proud to be an American” while fireworks are exploding in the sky. Next was another band and fire on a floating pallet down on the canal. People were packed onto floating stages and restaurants, bridges, and walls to observe. “It becomes like a room”, Henrik said. Two Danish men struck up conversation with Henrik and me. One of the men was eager to explain that the Danish immigration laws represent the current government, not the people. I promised him I would share only the best. Even without his prodding I would tell anyone that the Danish are very nice people and Denmark is a wonderful place to visit.

Trendy bike helmets

For my pictures, check out my web album. 

Seventh Day in Copenhagen

6/22/11

Today was a restful day. I went with Eskil and his friends to swim in the canals. I got to ride in his Christiania bike. It was a nice rest after what had to be at least a 100 km day yesterday. I felt like a maharaja. Being so low offers a great view of the street. I wanted a video camera so I could make a movie of Melle riding her red bicycle with her blond hair streaming behind in the salty air.

It is common to see full grown people riding around in the Christiania cargo compartment. It is also a great way to transport babies in “car seats” (would it be a bike seat in this case?) and toddlers. Little Susie is tired of pedaling? No problem, just throw her, and her bike into the Christiania bike and you’re back on the road.

On the way home I stopped to watch traffic outside of Christianshavn station. Though chaotic, it seems to work well. Pedestrians have an island between the sidewalk and the cycle track where they can load the bus. They stream onto the island when they see the bus arriving. It seems to narrow and unprotected for people to wait on the island. Maybe if it were wide enough for a shelter they would feel safe enough to cross and wait on the island before the bus arrives. This would probably help to smooth the flow of bicycle traffic. I saw an elderly woman walk to the intersection with her bicycle. How would she navigate this space? When the pedestrian signal turned green she proceeded to cross the street. She made it about three quarters of the way across when the light turned red. Should the signal phase be longer? The cars and bikes all waited for her. Still, it must be disconcerting to feel that you are stuck in the middle of the road when everyone is chomping at the bit to move on with their day. I saw a blind man approach the intersection. How would he navigate this space? The sidewalk was made of brick with trails of two parallel wider, flatter brick paths. He followed the smooth trails to the intersection. From there he found the bricks with the bumps (I always forget what they’re called) and knew to wait for the green signal by the audible beeping. It speeds up when the pedestrian light is green and you are allowed to cross. He made it out onto the bus boarding island and boarded the bus without a problem.

Sixth Day in Copenhagen and Beyond

6/21/11

This morning I set off for Helsinore. Here I am rolling the bike up from the basement using the handy bike ramp that is on nearly every staircase. Yes, I wore a dress for a 90 km ride. Ok, so I did wear my chamois underneath. Marc, I know you laugh at lycra, but it really is practical. 

Henrik let me borrow his bike to ride to Helsinore. It reminds me a lot of Corbin’s commuter bike. Now I know why he loves it so much. It was very zippy and the gearing was great. Helsinore is 45 km from Copenhagen. I rode the national route 9 all the way out. Yesterday I went to the Dutch Bike Federation to pick up the map and guide book. The route ran along the harbor as a cycle track, through the woods between the rail line and the highway as a separated path, and through low traffic residential streets limited to 30 km/h. There were beautiful views of the sea and quaint houses with thatched roofs. Wouldn’t it be lovely if the Oregon Coast bike route spanned the entire state?

Overall everything was well-marked and I didn’t get too lost. There was one point on the way back out of town that I saw a sign pointing to the right for cycle route 9, walked to the right and saw a sign pointing to the left for cycle route 9. I looked in the middle of the signs, but didn’t see anything resembling a bike path. I ended up along the highway, which although it still had a cycle track, was not as pleasant as the cycle route. I took a side road and found my way back.

From Helsinore, I took the ferry to Helsinborg, Sweden. I was able to take my bike on for free. From what I saw, the cycle network in Helsinborg is not as well connected, or consistent. In Copenhagen, it seems like every street that has enough traffic to warrant a cycle track has one. In Helsinborg, they created paths on the sidewalk for cyclists in some places, put cycle tracks in others, and put bicycle lanes in one direction in others. In some places things worked really well. There was a great example of diverting the cycle track behind a bus stop on one street, but on another it seemed like the cycle track ended suddenly at the bus stop and I wasn’t sure where I belonged. In general the separation wasn’t as clearly defined. The grade separation and coloration were not different enough. It seemed like more than just tourists were walking in the cycle track. They also have a bike counter, but it was only at 675 at about 12:30 pm. Only. Ha ha!

I also spent time walking around the city center. The pedestrian light turned green and I started to step out into traffic when a man called me back to the curb. Cars proceeded to turn right without yielding to us. You’re not in Denmark any more Dorothy. The man was Austrian. He initiated conversation by asking if I liked Mozart. When he realized that I was American (not British as he had guessed), he asked if I liked Elvis. He proceeded to serenade me with “Love me Tender”. If I had not been in the middle of the city, with people around to save me in the case that this got any weirder than it already was, I would have exited the situation. Later I came across a theater that specialized in Elvis impersonations. Perhaps I met one of their stars.

Helsinborg has great pedestrian only streets with shops and cafes with outdoor seating. Their city center is more of a strip. The plazas are also really cool with functional artwork: bunny statues that seem to invite kids to climb on them, a large bed of flowers encircle by a wide wooden bench. Just a block from the square was a wooded area leading up to the tower – a great escape from the city. On the other side of the castle was a residential area. There were still a few shops and restaurants interspersed.

When I returned to Helsinore, I walked around their city center as well. It is much like Copenhagen’s only less busy. There are also shops that sell specialty foods – meats, cheeses, wines, alcohol. Perhaps they are also in Copenhagen but I haven’t seen them. I think it is important to allow smaller vendors and provide smaller rental spaces so that it is a street for everyone, where most anyone can afford to buy something, not just the super wealthy.

Hamlet used to live in Helsinore. If Roger Adkins is looking for another literature themed study abroad course, he could take the kids to H.C. Anderson Boulevard in Copenhagen and then up to Hamlet’s castle in Helsinore.

For more pictures, check out my web album.

Fifth Day in Copenhagen

5/20/11

Stupid tourist. I was a bad cyclist today. I was lost in thought, pondering whether or not I should trust the fickle weather and go for a swim in the harbor. I saw a green light and kept going straight. The green light with a green arrow pointing to the right was for the cars who were allowed to turn right while I should have been stopped. Woops. Fortunately, I caused no damage to persons or property. Perhaps my mistake fuels the argument that Copenhagen should offer bicycle education to the growing number of tourists who are becoming curious about bicycling and giving it a go. After all, Danes get bicycle education throughout school. The police go out to the schools and teach children the laws and the children’s riding skills are tested.

Imagine that! Policemen that know bicycle traffic laws. I don’t mean to generalize. I’m sure that there are many American policemen that are well-versed in bicycle traffic laws, but I think back to a particular incident that Colleen told me about. She was stopped by a policemen and told that as a cyclist she was not allowed to be in the road and should get on the sidewalk. Wrong.

Eva said that tourists used to not dare to ride. At least when I had my bright red rental bike I stood out as someone who might not know what they were doing. Just as with drivers with foreign license plates, bright red rental bikes indicate “Beware, unpredictable behavior may ensue”. Ok, lesson learned. Moving on.

I love riding Eva’s bike. Henrik calls it the tank. I feel like a queen. What could give you better posture than riding an upright city bike? Riding an upright city bike with a guitar strapped to your back. Yes, I saw a young lady doing that on a bright blue bike with her blond hair blowing in the wind. She would have been miserable on a road bike. She does not win the prize though. Today the prize goes to a man in a recumbent that was covered with a silver shell. He looked like a bullet.

I saw the sensor activated bollards for the first time today. A car rolled up to the bollard and it sunk down into the ground. It was activated by a sensor that detects metal like those used at stoplights. A taxi approached from the other direction, where traffic was prohibited from proceeding. He proceeded to drive halfway in the cycle track and halfway on the sidewalk to pass through. Guess they aren’t foolproof. 

Today I noticed that there is a narrow sidewalk between the bus lane and the cycle track across from Christianshavn Station. I think this is a good solution. If the strip is wide enough, it also provides place for a shelter for people waiting for the bus.  Bus riders have a place to exit to and then cyclists and pedestrians can negotiate who has right of way as the cyclists prepare to cross the cycle track to the full sidewalk. Education about courteous behavior is still a good idea.

The weather was looking up so I went on a run through the city. My favorite part was running down Stroget, darting and dodging through the window shoppers. I realize that I was probably slightly annoying, but it was thoroughly enjoyable. The feeling is akin to picking a route when mountain biking, trail running, or downhill skiing, except your obstacles are people instead of rocks. Stroget might be my favorite street in the world. Why do I like it better than Hans Christian Anderson Boulevard?  Because it is smaller scale. The shops are inviting. The people in the outdoor cafes are fun to watch. They are either wrapped up in food and conversations or enjoying people watching as much as you are. The streets are full of people so you know you are in “the” place to be. There are no cars. There is no construction.

At the end of my run I went down to the harbor. They have an area fenced off with lifeguards to supervise. There is an area for lap swimmers, shallower pools for children, and a staircase that allows older kids to dive from different heights. Most swimmers were wearing wetsuits. Uh oh. I stuck a toe in and decided to take the risk. I dove in and swam the length of the pool before catching my breath. After a few minutes I decided I should get out before I catch a cold. I felt like a new woman. I guess a fresh sea water ice bath has that effect.

In the Architecture Center there was a video on creating a city that encourages active living. The pool at the harbor is one technique. I encountered another unintended technique that encouraged active behavior. Three little girls were practicing their dance moves and watching themselves in  semi-reflective glass stairs that surrounded a stairwell. Doubt the architects planned for that one.

 

There is good and bad in traveling solo. Good: I get to do whatever I want, whenever I want. Bad: It is a bit lonely. No worries. I will be with the study abroad crew soon enough enjoying their company, but likely searching out solitude. Eskil and Henrik say that there is a different style of riding in Amsterdam. Traffic is more mixed. I am looking forward to analyzing the differences.